Spremembe
A CHANGING WORLD / Prof. Nataša Peršuh / September 2023
Vsako obdobje nas nekaj nauči, vsak čas prinese nova spoznanja. Današnje generacije študentov, bodočih modnih in tekstilnih oblikovalcev, so zrasle s prav posebno izkušnjo, ki jih je zavedno ali nezavedno spremenila in bo prav gotovo pustila pečat v njihovem ustvarjanju. Doživeli smo nekaj, za kar pravijo, da lahko doživiš samo enkrat v življenju.
Prav vsak ustvarjalni in oblikovalski projekt, posebej v modi, je odziv na čas in trenutne okoliščine. Vsako kolekcijo, vsako prelomno modno revijo ali kreacijo moramo analizirati, gledati, videti in razumeti v kontekstu časa, prostora in okoliščin. Danes, ko na stvari, vezane na pandemijo, že gledamo iz distance, pa nekatera vprašanja še vztrajajo in (p)ostajajo univerzalna: Kako na novo definirati vsebinsko ozadje svojega oblikovalskega dela, ko se (lahko) zamajejo temelji vedenja, sistemov in možnosti ustvarjanja? Kam gremo? Kaj je prav in kaj ne, kaj je res in kaj ne, kaj je prava vrednost, kaj zaresna vrednota? Študentje, mladi oblikovalci skozi projekte danes še bolj kritično komentirajo, kje je potreben nov, drugačen pogled na stare stvari, na obstoječe dogme, ostanke drugih časov, načine delovanja, razmišljanja.
Spremembe poganjajo napredek in vsaka kriza prinaša priložnosti. V modi in modni industriji smo najprej ugotovili, da dobrine niso samoumevne. Zavedeli smo se krhkosti določenih segmentov industrije, doživeli propad veliko blagovnih znamk in podjetij. Na novo smo začeli ceniti kvaliteto. Ugotovili smo, da se je pomembno zazreti vase, v svojo lokalno skupnost, poiskati trajnostne in obnovljive vire. V oblikovanju so se postavile nove meje in mejniki.
Oblikovalski projekti, nastali med in po pandemičnem času, nagovarjajo k razmisleku in postavljajo nova merila v pristopih k oblikovanju, v materialih, ki jih uporabljamo, v možnostih in kontekstih sodelovanja, komuniciranja, prezentacije, akcije in reakcije, tudi v pojavnih oblikah umetnosti in mode. Sodobna trajnostna moda je danes tu, je zaresna, nujna in kreativna. Oblikovalski odgovori študentov in vodilnih imen področja so inovativni, drzni in aktualni, aktivno vključujejo koncepte upcikliranja, recikliranja, ponovne uporabe, uporabe sodobnih tehnologij, reinvencije tradicije in ročnih del, novih pristopov in hibridnih rešitev.
Oblikovalski projekti, nastali med in po pandemičnem času, nagovarjajo k razmisleku in postavljajo nova merila v pristopih k oblikovanju, v materialih, ki jih uporabljamo, v možnostih in kontekstih sodelovanja, komuniciranja, prezentacije, akcije in reakcije, tudi v pojavnih oblikah umetnosti in mode. Sodobna trajnostna moda je danes tu, je zaresna, nujna in kreativna. Oblikovalski odgovori študentov in vodilnih imen področja so inovativni, drzni in aktualni, aktivno vključujejo koncepte upcikliranja, recikliranja, ponovne uporabe, uporabe sodobnih tehnologij, reinvencije tradicije in ročnih del, novih pristopov in hibridnih rešitev.
Spremembe so se zgodile vsem, tudi tistim najbolj zadržanim. Danes marsikje vidimo izjemen kreativni pogum, prilagodljivost, iznajdljivost in mojstrstvo. Morda smo postali drznejši, odločnejši in načelnejši, morda pa zgolj bolj spoštljivi do sebe in okolja. Trajnostne in etične vrednote postajajo del nas, v modi vse bolj in bolj pronicajo tudi v širše javno mnenje, kjer podpirajo osveščeno oblikovanje, so deli poslovnih načrtov, nacionalnih strategij. Take spremembe so dobre.
Spremembe, ki so nas na začetku hromile, sedaj dajejo krila novim generacijam oblikovalcev, ki k svojemu delu pristopajo še bolj odgovorno in celostno. Optimizem je na mestu. Na področju izobraževanja vsak dan vidimo navdušujoče kolekcije, premnoge male in velike ideje, ki navdušujejo in bodo v prihodnje poganjale industrijo naprej.
Every era teaches us something; every period brings new insights. Today’s generations of students, future fashion and textile designers, grew up with a very special experience that changed them consciously or unconsciously and will undoubtedly leave a mark on their creations.We experienced something they say you only get to experience once in a lifetime.
Every creative and design project, especially in fashion, is a response to the time and current circumstances. Every collection, each groundbreaking fashion show or creation, must be analysed, observed, seen and understood in the context of time, space, and circumstances. Today, as we look at pandemic-related matters from a distance, some questions persist and become/remain universal: How to redefine the content background of one’s design work when the foundations of knowledge, systems and creative possibilities (can) shake? Where are we heading? What is right and what is wrong, what is true and what is not, what is the actual worth, what is the true value? Today, through projects, students and young designers even more critically comment on where a new and different perspective on old things, existing dogmas, remnants of other times and ways of acting and thinking are needed.
Changes drive progress, and every crisis brings opportunities. In fashion and the fashion industry, we first realised that goods should not be taken for granted. We became aware of the fragility of certain industry segments, witnessing the demise of many brands and companies. We began to value quality anew. We found it important to reflect, look at our local community and seek sustainable and renewable sources. In design, new limits and milestones have been set.
Design projects created during and after the pandemic call for reflection. They set new standards in design approaches, the materials we use, the possibilities and contexts of collaboration, communication, presentation, action and reaction, even in the manifestations of art and fashion. Contemporary sustainable fashion is here today; it is real, necessary and creative. The design responses of students and leading figures in the field are innovative, bold and realistic. They actively incorporate the concepts of upcycling, recycling, reuse, the use of modern technologies, the reinvention of tradition and craftsmanship, as well as new approaches and hybrid solutions.
Changes happened to everyone, even the most reserved. Nowadays, we see exceptional creative courage, adaptability, resourcefulness, and mastery in many places. Perhaps we have become bolder, more determined and principled, or maybe simply more respectful of ourselves and the environment. Sustainable and ethical values are becoming a part of us and, in fashion, increasingly penetrating public opinion, where they are supporting conscious design and becoming integral parts of business plans and national strategies. Such changes are good.
The changes that hindered us at the beginning now give wings to new generations of designers who approach their work more responsibly and holistically. Optimism is needed. In education, every day, we see inspiring collections and numerous small and big ideas that inspire and will drive the industry forward in the future.
The changes that hindered us at the beginning now give wings to new generations of designers who approach their work more responsibly and holistically. Optimism is needed. In education, every day, we see inspiring collections and numerous small and big ideas that inspire and will drive the industry forward in the future.
